Farewell to the Baltics – 5 June 2011

We felt very pleased with our Baltic experience. The weather was terrific, which is certainly not a given in this area, and in true contrariness, the wonderful heat and sunshine of our first two days in Stockholm dropped about 10 C for our final day.

We used the day to visit some more of the sights, using our Stockholm Card. First up was the city royal residence. Not on the same opulent standard of the British Palaces, but still a great place to visit. We also watched the changing of the guard, and felt the same. Maybe we are biased, but the Brits know how to do pomp and ceremony and the discipline of the movement of the soldiers on command is world's apart.

Near the Palace is the Nobel Museum, this was interesting, and we were able to look up Ernest Rutherford's entry as an award winner.

Our final museum was the History Museum, to look at the Gold Room. Years of finding Viking hoards have allowed the Swedes to accumulate a terrific haul of exciting treasure troves. It must be so exciting to stumble on such a find, we enjoyed just looking at them.

A final walk back along the waterfront; a final waterfront meal, and it was time to head home. We really enjoyed Stockholm, it really is a very attractive city with it's various islands (apparently 24,000), walking paths around the waterfronts in many places (some on the Baltic and some on the 120km long Lake Malaren) and lovely old buildings. We wondered if this was due to less destruction during the war. On a hot summers day, it would be hard to beat.

Drottningholm – 4 June 2011

Drottningholm is the residence of the Swedish Royal family, and a UNESCO site as well. The picturesque way to get there is on a boat across Lake Malaren, starting once again from the City Hall. The trip passes places of interest, such as the site of the original Electrolux factory where the only remaining part, the staff canteen, is now a Michelin Star restaurant called 'Lux'.

The Palace was built in the 17th century, and as the Swedish Royal family were not as wealthy as other royal houses, it was a clever use of fake marble to create an opulent look. This applied especially to the theatre, built in 1762, which has wooden curtains behind the boxes, wooden 'marble' fireplaces and so forth. The theatre was 'lost' for over 100 years, after Gustav III, the “Theatre King” was assassinated in 1792. Gustav was passionate about the theatre, but when he was killed, it was left totally untouched, and eventually totally forgotten about.

The third element to the area being protected by UNESCO, is the Chinese Pavilion. This is one of the best preserved buildings of it's type. It was a birthday present for Queen Louisa Ulrika in 1753. Nearby was a fascinating small Chinese styled building which was used by the royal couple to eat alone. The table was raised through a trap-door in the floor, ready set by the servants in the basement below. This process was repeated for each course, with no servants present for totally privacy.

After returning to the city by boat, we attempted to take the Katarinahissen 19th century lift up to the top of the hill in Sodermalm. It was out of order, but there is a modern lift nearby, which provides access by walkway to the old lift where there is a great city view. Nearby is the City Museum, which has a small Millennium Trilogy exhibition, and a walking map about the books of the Millennium Trilogy, and the places they were set in Stockholm. We spent an enjoyable couple of hours looking at the various places mentioned in the stories.

During this time, we also had a side trip to a booked ride on the Sky View – a pod on the Ericson Globe. This is a sporting venue built in the largest spherical building in the world, but the outside has been turned into another attraction – two mini-globes give rides to the top of the globe for a great view.

Stockholm - 3 June 2011

Unfortunately yesterday when we arrived was a public holiday which meant that the Tourist Information office was closed and the consequence was that we could not get the information we needed until 9:00 this morning. So as soon as possible, we purchased our Stockholm Cards and hit the sights.

Closest to the hotel was the berth to board the boat for the historic canal tour. Stockholm is surrounded by water and this trip was on Lake Malaren which drops a metre or so into the Baltic just near the hotel. The boat tour was a pleasant introduction and overview of the city with a bit of history and a few Swedish household names thrown in; Electrolux, ABBA, Alfa-Laval, Nobel, Bjorn Borg, Volvo, H&M, etc

Next door to the quay is the City Hall, visited via timed tour, and the tower, climbed via timed ticket, and juggling the two queues at two ticket offices on opposite sides of the building in order to dovetail the two visits was bit of a challenge but we finally got the times aligned and set off on the tour. The City Hall was built in the 1920s but looks much older, The Gold room is breath-taking as it is completely lined with murals made with mosaic tiles, primarily gold.

The views from the tower make the climb worthwhile and after soaking in the 360 degree views and stunningly clear vistas we returned to ground level and crossed back to Gamla Stan to use the hop-on-hop-off boat for our next stop. Unfortunately the free rides courtesy of the Stockholm Card finished 2 days ago so we decided to walk but after a couple of blocks in the heat we hopped on a bus to the Vasa Museum.

Swedish design has made many names famous but in the case of the Vasa it was particularly poor design that has made the name famous. The Vasa was a new warship commissioned by the King in 1625 and when it was launched in August 1628 it sailed for just 20 minutes before a small gust of wind blew it over and water flooded in through the gun-ports that were open after firing the salute at the launch and it sank in full view of the assembled populace. Fortunately less than 30 lives were lost and the ship sat in the mud for the next 333 years where the brackish Baltic water prevented the normal deterioration due to woodworm. Thus when it was finally rediscovered and retrieved from the mud it was in amazingly good condition and became the world's biggest conservation project as they reconstructed the ship from a 14,000 piece jigsaw puzzle. 30 years later 95% of the original ship was put on display in a purpose-built museum.

The irony is that the greatest maritime design disaster in Swedish history has provided the 21st century with the only example of a 17th C warship with all the intricate detail and many contents and created Stockholm's most popular tourist attraction.
This is definitely a must, on a visit to Stockholm.

From Riga to Stockholm – 2 June 2011

Today, we completed the final stage in our Baltic 'Cruise', by flying to Stockholm. The flight was not until 14.25, so we had a leisurely start to the day, and walked to the large Central Markets. These were colourful and sold everything you might need, except furniture.

The markets extended way past the original market buildings, and the area around contained just as many stalls. We were fascinated by the old women who seemed to have their own corner and stood there with arms covered in stockings. By the look of the stockings, they were designed to appeal to similarly aged women.

We did one final circuit of the old town, before returning to pack and check out. It seemed odd that our door card no longer worked, and at reception we were told we had exceeded our 12 noon check out time. It appeared we had spent two days in Riga, unaware that it is an hour later than Oslo. So our leisurely morning came to an abrupt end, and we jumped on the next bus to the airport, only to discover that our flight was late!

The airport Ryanair use is 80 minutes out of Stockholm, so we finally made it to our hotel five hours after racing out the Riga hotel. But with the long northern days, there was still plenty of time to explore Gamla Stan – the old town. It is largely pedestrianised, and we managed to find the smallest street, which is a whole block long, but only 1m wide. Gamla Stan is an island, in fact Stockholm is built on many islands, and the areas of the city that we could see across the water looked wonderful, there is clearly more to explore during our stay here.

Riga – 1 June 2011

Riga is a very relaxing place to have a short break. There are many interesting streets in the Old Town, all pedestrianised, and full of cafes and restaurants with al fresco dining.

To start the day, we walked north of the old town, to the other UNESCO area – the Art Nouveau precinct. Unlike similar cities in Germany, this area was not bombed in WWII, and has survived intact. The buildings in this area range from late 19th to early 20th centuries, showing the change in Art Nouveaux from ornate to severe stylised exteriors (but nowhere near as severe as the Soviet era architecture). It was great wandering around in the lovely sunshine, using a map supplied by the Tourist Office.

Before lunch in one of the many reasonably priced restaurants, we took a canal/river cruise in a lovely old varnished boat from 1915. We were the only customers in the front of the boat, and enjoyed the city from a 1915 classic.

After lunch, we visited the Museum of the Occupation, suitably housed in an depressing (presumably ex-Soviet) building. The stark exterior mimicked the stark facts of the comprehensive exhibition inside. The Latvian people had a very bad deal under the Soviets, with 1/3 of the population killed/relocated/lost in the early years. Then during the war, the Germans gave them an equally bad deal, until in 1946, the Soviets marched back in again and continued their earlier regime of repression. The Baltic countries seemed to come off worst after WWII.

Finally in 1991, the growing voice of the people had effect, and in the Prestroika era, Latvia was one of the many countries which finally gained their independence from the USSR. One fact that really registered, was a demonstration of 2 million people on 23 August 1989, who held hands from Tallinn to Riga and on to Vilnius. Having visited Tallinn in March, we can somewhat visualise the distance covered, it must have been amazing to take part, and just over a year later these people tasted freedom for the first time.

Leaving here to enjoy a drink in the lively square, seemed almost decadently Western. But times have changed, and this is what the move to democracy by the Latvian people 20 years ago was all about – freedom to live life without restrictions.

It was time to just wander again; exploring streets, alleyways, and many fascinating old buildings, before dinner. Given the Soviet theme so far, we went around the corner from the hotel to the Austrumu Robeza restaurant where our bourgeois and non-Aryan lifestyle was frowned upon by busts of Lenin, Stalin and Hitler. We enjoyed the irony of sitting in an ex-Eastern-bloc country enjoying a fabulous Russian three-course meal washed down by an excellent NZ Savignon Blanc delivered from Marlborough via a distributor in the US.

Off to Riga - 31 May 2011

It was great to swap Oslo at 10 deg and rain, for Riga at 27 deg and brilliant sunshine. Riga is the capital of Latvia, a UNESCO city centre, and as an ex Soviet Block country, much cheaper than the Scandinavian countries.

For half the price, we found a very comfortable boutique hotel, in the centre of Riga. It's great to step out the front door of a hotel, right into the old town. Riga has escaped modernisation, and some buildings which needed replacing (as a result of WWII), have been rebuilt exactly as they were. The House of the Blackheads was rebuilt in 2001 as an 800th birthday present to the city. The original building dated from 1344, and to see it crisp and new, but just the same, is amazing. It gives an idea of what these towns looked like in medieval times.

We decided to start our tour of Riga, by climbing the tower of St Peter's church. Unlike most towers, the climb came first, followed by a lift to the top. The views are great, and give an idea of how much there is to see.

For dinner, we were enticed by a photo of a meal called “The Key to Riga”. A giant tree shaped kebab holder was covered in large chunks of beef, pork and turkey. It was quite delicious and extremely filling. Unlike Oslo, food is cheap here, and as the old town is pedestrianised, all the squares and pavements were full of cafes, quite delightful to eat out in the warm summer evening. A walk after dinner was essential, so we walked along the river to see the Riga Castle.

Norway in a Nutshell – 30 May 2011

Today was a day of superlatives: the highest railway; the steepest railway; the longest fjord; the deepest fjord; the narrowest fjord; the steepest road; the smallest church and the silliest farm.

The day began at a reasonably civilised hour at the Oslo Station when we boarded the scheduled service to Bergen and from that point climbed steadily until we reached 1222m at Finse which is the highest railway point in northern Europe. We had passed through the tree-line and the snow-line before we got there and on arrival the guard gave us time to get out and look at the glacier (or have a very quick snowball fight as some did).

We did not stay long, fortunately, as it was snowing and the warm train was inviting. After descending to 866m we arrived at Myrdal where we left the main-line train to take the Flam railway down to Flam. Known as the “twenty line” it took 20 years to construct this line which passes through 20 tunnels on its short 20km journey down from 866m to 2m making it the steepest adhesion railway in the world. There are stops along the way to admire waterfalls and view points and the trip takes an hour to cover the short distance.

After a brief look around Flam we boarded a ferry on the Naerofjord, the longest and deepest in Norway. The two-hour trip basically takes you from one arm of the fjord, passing the smallest Stave church in Norway and a (silliest?) goat farm 300m up the fjord wall that was originally only accessible by ladders (and goat tracks) and then round the corner and up the next arm; passing through the narrowest point in the fjord where it is only 250m wide. Although there were intermittent showers, the fine spells were sufficiently long to enjoy the views for the waterfalls cascading down into the fjord, all very reminiscent of Milford Sound.

Unfortunately a shower was waiting for us at Gudvangen as we dashed across the carpark to the waiting buses which took us up through a winding tunnel to Stalheimskleiva where we turned off the main road and descended the 13 hairpin bends on Norway's steepest stretch of road, passing two magnificent waterfalls on the way down. At the bottom we seemed to simply retrace our path up through the tunnel to the top and then on to Voss for a short wait before boarding a local train down to the coast at Bergen.

Although it was 2030 by the time we arrived in Bergen it was still light enough to explore the fascinating World Heritage site comprised of buildings from around 1700. These old warehouses lean at crazy angles and seem to be propping one another up side-by-side and across the narrow alleys that provide access between them.

There was time for a delicious meal before heading back to the station to catch our overnight sleeper train back to Oslo where we had time to collect our luggage from the Hotel, have some breakfast and dodge the rain on the way back to the bus terminal to catch the bus to the airport for our next leg of the “cruise”.