The Thames and beyond – 1 August 2010

Clara was dying for an outing, having heard her younger sister had romped all over Europe, so we invited Ngaire and Stuart to go out with us for a sedate Sunday drive.



Lunch was first on the menu, in the Walled Garden at Sunbury-on-Thames. This garden with its fabulous embroidery exhibition, was definitely worth a repeat visit, and we enjoyed being inspired by their millennium embroidery again, and admiring some new works.

From here we drove across the Chilterns, via Henley-on-Thames to Greys Court. We hadn't visited here since 2002, and there seemed a lot more to see, the most interesting outdoor feature was the donkey wheel. This huge wheel, powered by a donkey walking inside it, was used to draw water up from the 200 foot deep well. The contraption dates from Tudor times, and was used up until 1914.



The house is still presented as a well loved country home, and we could just imagine living here.

Back to London – 31 July 2010

After a morning at Ikea, which seems like a home show, without the entry fee, we headed into London. Every year, the Serpentine Gallery has a Pavilion, designed by an artist. This year it is designed by Jean Nouvel, and is an unmissable red landmark structure, with all the accessories to the cafe in red, along with red table tennis tables and a red hammock. We loved it, and stopped by for a coffee.

Another new feature of London parks this summer, is colourful prints on the deck chairs. These were harder to track down, but eventually we found some of the new chairs in St James's Park. We secured ours just in time for an hour long band performance. The sun was shining, the band played well, what more could we ask from London in the summer!

Evacuated from Dunkirk – 25 July 2010

Our camp site was within easy reach of Dunkirk, so that we could spend some time there. But first we stopped for morning coffee at Bergues. This proved to be a real delight – a mini Brugge. The town is attractive, with Flemish style buildings, and as a bonus, we discovered it was also a fortified town designed by Vauban. The walls, gates and areas of fortifications still exist. This was so appealing, we can imagine a return visit for a weekend.

The 'Musee Portuaire Dunkerque' was our next stop; it is a very well presented museum of the history of Dunkirk, and surprise, surprise, once again, the story starts with Vauban. Louis XIV purchased Dunkirk from the British in 1662 and commissioned Vauban to turn this area of sand banks into an arsenal, port with canals and a channel out to sea. The museum traced the history of the port, and for the 70th anniversary this year, an extensive display of the evacuation of the British forces from Dunkirk. This historical account was most interesting to us, as we have always heard the stories from the Commonwealth slant. To learn that the French were most upset to have their allies retreating, without any prior warning was a different slant. The news only got out, when Churchill had to let the media in on the retreat, as there was no way of disguising the thousands of men returning to England. He put a suitable spin on the news, and first hand recollections, by audio guide, told of how the soldiers feared they would be jeered at as deserters, only to find they were cheered as heros.

90% of Dunkirk was destroyed during WWII, and as we ate delicious salads beside the Hotel de Ville, we were impressed at how they have rebuilt the town, much of it keeping the Flemish character.

Fortified, we moved on - 24 July 2010

The rain continued most of the night, but cleared in the morning, and we were able to make use of the walk leaflet we were given at the Longwy Tourist Office. About half of the original town and ramparts still remain in this town. It was obviously built on a similar design as Neuf-Brisach. This town has suffered military action more recently though, and we could see hundreds of WWI bullet holes in most of the public buildings.



The final UNESCO Vauban site on our route back to Dunkirk was in Arras. The sat-nav seemed determined to route us there via Belgium. We decided not to argue, until we discovered the state of rural Belgium roads. We had thought British rural roads were in a bad condition after last winter's freeze, but the Belgium minor roads we encountered were shocking, one of them looked like the craters of the moon! We were relieved to cross back into France, and their excellent roads.

Arras is a town worth visiting for it's own sake, which was just as well, as we were unable to enter the Vauban Citadel. The design looked very similar on the outside, but the fortress was locked up tight.

Despite this, we enjoyed walking the town trail. The centre of the city is built around two main squares, which are surrounded by Flemish style houses. The town was heavily bombed in WWI and WWII, and the reconstruction is incredible. There were photos in the cathedral of the destruction and the town today is very well restored.

On the second half of our drive today, we passed many war cemeteries and monuments. At Arras, next to the Citadel, we were able to take in the grandeur of the British War Cemetery. 159,000 Commonwealth soldiers were killed in this area during a period of 39 days. The graves only account for 2,670 soldiers, the names of 35,000 missing men are written around the monument. This area is a stark reminder of the grim history of last century.

Vauban's Forts – 23 July 2010

The fortified town of Neuf-Brisach is really amazing. Now a UNESCO protected site, it was designed by Vauban, King Louis XIV's military architect. We first encountered Vauban in Briancon, where he was the architect, and the Vauban Museum in Neuf-Brisach gave us an insight into the amazing feats he accomplished. Many of his designs used the star shape design used here, and result is elegant and in its day was the epitome of military architecture.

Vauban designed 130 fortified towns all around the borders of France and Neuf-Brisach was his last work commissioned in 1698 and competed five years later. The Tourist Office has a great town trail, which we followed in the intermittent rain, having fortified ourselves with a delicious breakfast in a cheerful cafe, and feeling cheered that we had got our damp tent packed away before more rain arrived!

The Museum gave us the names of two more forts built by Vauban, which could be easily reached on our way back to Dunkirk. So after driving the Wine Route in Alsace (unfortunately in the rain), the sat-nav took us over a very scenic mountain road and off on a direct route to Longwy.

By the time we reached Longwy, a thunder and lightning storm had arrived in earnest, and we got drenched just trying to navigate the main square for coffee and a Tourist Office. The coffee was disappointing and the Tourist Office didn't exist. The whole place looked depressed, and apparently their steel industry closed some time ago, which explains the look of the place. We were surprised there was no mention of this UNESCO site, and finally found the 'high town', complete with Museum, Tourist Office and fortifications. The rain had no intention of easing off, so we found a hotel on the high town square, which had a much more pleasant look than its neighbour (even in the rain). Dinner, once again, was a delicious experience at the only restaurant open in this small town.

Switzerland, Germany to France – 22 July 2010

From Liechtenstein we toured through northern Switzerland, at first following a valley which had an unending series of cute villages, on our way to Appenzell. This is described as being the butt of Swiss jokes, due to their ultra conservative way of life. But as a tourist town, it is irresistible; although small in size, it managed to relieve us of a quantity of “tourist dollars”. We were fascinated by a series of glass windows set into the pavement above a bakery, where we could observe the staff making delicious pies and pastries. Of course we had to buy our lunch there, for a picnic above the Rhine later.


St Gallen is a city, but the heart of the old town is also an irresistible pedestrianised area, full of very handsome buildings, many with oriel windows. In the centre of the town is the Kathedrale, a magnificent church, full of marble and carved wood. Nearby is a more modern church, the man hours that have gone into these buildings is amazing.



From here we headed north to where the Rhine leaves Lake Constance, and followed the river valley to Schaffhausen. This is a lovely drive, through many superb villages, the best of all is Stein am Rhein. This town has to be one of the best we have seen, straight out of my childhood, lavishly illustrated, fairy tale book. The buildings are painted with pictures, obviously telling a story. We lingered as long as our dwindling Euro coin reserves for parking meters let us. It was a challenge to get across Switzerland without buying any Swiss Francs.

The last stop in Switzerland was Schaffhausen and the Rhine Falls. Schaffhausen also has a lovely old town, with the addition of many fountains, and a hilltop fortress. By the time we reached there, we could see the black clouds gathering, and it appeared heavy rain was imminent. So we did a drive through the town and carried on to the falls, the largest in Europe at 23m. They are quite awesome, with the might of the Rhine thundering over this drop at a curve in the river.

Neuf-Brisach was our final destination, and although it was too wet to explore the town, we found one restaurant open, and enjoyed a delicious meal of local specialities.

Liechtenstein – 21 July 2010

Leaving Italy, we drove through two mountain passes in Switzerland to reach Liechtenstein.

During the drive across Switzerland, we saw a sign to a 'World Monument' bridge. This sounded worth a detour, and although the sat-nav said it was 2.9k east, it turned out to be a torturous narrow winding road to a beautiful art-deco bridge from 1930. We were expecting an old historical bridge, and were totally surprised by this beautiful, elegant, modern looking bridge. The roads it serves, does not seem worthy of such a masterpiece. The Salginatobel Bridge is one of the structures awarded 'World Monument' status and shares this honour with such engineering masterpieces as the Eiffel Tower and the Panama Canal.

We carried on through river valleys to reach the most non-border crossing on our trip thus far; two sets of flags, announced we had reached Liechtenstein. We found a very pleasant campsite, then set out to explore the capital – Vaduz.

The look of Vaduz is modern and prosperous. New and old buildings are side by side, with attractive gardens and a general well kept appearance. Obviously being small can be beautiful.

Our meal at the camp that evening was delicious, although expensive compared to France and Italy.




Just as we got back to our tent, the blue sky changed very rapidly to black, and a violent electrical storm moved in. It was so violent, that the tent threatened to leave it's moorings, and the guys ropes we usually ignore were rapidly brought into service. We decided to retire to bed, and when we woke up in the morning, we were greeted with another beautiful day, perhaps this is normal in the Alps.