Krackow Old Town - 12 April 2009

Last night's restaurant was very near the starting point for the Jewish Quarter walk that took us past a number of Synagogues, not all in current use, a couple of Jewish cemeteries and then over the river to the area where the Jews were forced into a ghetto in WWII and then cleared out and deported to death camps. Two short sections of the ghetto wall remain.

A short walk from the ghetto is the factory of Oskar Schindler, immortalized in the book and film Schindler's List. Currently, the factory is being converted into a museum to commemorate the life and times of the Jews in that period.

Our afternoon walk followed the Royal Route from the Barbican, at one end of the old city, down to the river by way of the Market Square, the largest square in Europe, and the castle on Wawel Hill overlooking the river Wista.

On the way we popped into a number of churches, all richly embellished as is typical of many European Catholic churches.

Auschwitz - 11 April 2009

What can one write about Auschwitz that has not already been said? It seemed incongruous to be visiting this scene of unspeakable horror and death on a beautiful spring day with the fresh new spring growth, the symbol of life and a future, budding all around us.

It is a full day excursion so we were up and on our way to the bus station early to catch the express bus from Krakow, only to find a long queue at the only open ticket office and then find all the seats sold. The next bus was 50 minutes later so we spent the time nattering to two other Kiwi couples before setting off for the 90-minute journey. We were still in time for the 11 a.m. English tour with Berta, a wonderful guide.

Auschwitz-I was a men only camp using an existing army barracks so was relatively palatial compared to the rigours of Auschwitz-II or Birkenau. How anyone survived winter in that bleak place in those camp buildings is a mystery. Prefabricated stables not holding the 52 horses they were designed for but rather 400+ prisoners, three levels deep, in incomprehensible conditions is just too hard for us to imagine or identify with.

The dehumanising processes, controls and conditions, graphically recounted by the guide and the display boards, are simply too much to absorb and while the information is processed by the brain the horror cannot really be understood. There were no trees breaking the view then, there was no grass underfoot, there was only death for the majority and a 10km walk each way to the work sites for the 'healthy' ones.

The strength of the human instinct to survive is evidenced in so many ways: whether in the pile of bodies under the air vents as they clambered on the bodies of others for the last gasps of fresh air in the gas chambers; or in the motivation of the capos who would treat their fellows more harshly than the SS in the hope of buying a few more days; or those who felt themselves fortunate to have the task of cleaning the latrines and so on. With the certain knowledge of the finality of the solution waiting for them in the gas chambers at the far side of the camp there were those who hoped with a hope so far beyond hope that the new day might bring life instead of death and so endured for one more day and one more day. Why they simply did not give up is truly something that we, in our cushy western world, cannot begin to understand.

The mentality of the Germans captors is also hard to comprehend. Apart from the obvious question as to how any rational person could be part of such barbarity, the fact that they would photograph and record the name, date of birth, date of arrival at the camp and date of death of a prisoner that was to be killed that same day is mind-boggling. Later the numbers murdered precluded any such record keeping but did not stop them collecting the toothbrushes, hair brushes, shaving brushes and so on.

But soon it was time to return and the bus timetable was not running the full service so it was a toss-up which bus to try for. We got back to Auschwitz-I in time for the 16:20 but it was full so we decided not to stand for 90 minutes. We had another look around the camp and then set off for the 17:30 bus. Before long there was at least two bus loads of people standing around and certainly not in a orderly British queue. I had stationed myself at the kerbside where I estimated the bus door would be and we stood and waited. Sure enough the door was directly in front of me when the bus arrived and we smuggly took our seats while the melee outside the door attempted to board the bus.

Eventually we left, but less than five minutes later the bus died and we had to wait for a replacement. Now those standing in the aisle had a distinct advantage over those of us in the seats as we scrambled from one bus to the next. Fortunately we secured seats again, just.

Dinner that evening continued the Jewish theme as we ate in the old Jewish quarter at a restaurant called “Once Upon A Time in Kazimierz”. Walls have been removed to amalgamate four old Jewish establishments: The General Store; a Tailors workroom and shop; a carpentry workshop and a Grocery store. Each section is furnished and decorated to reflect its original use giving the restaurant a wonderful atmosphere; complimented by the delicious food.

Wieliczka Salt Mine - 10 April 2009

A new country beckoned so we set off for our first visit to Poland, flying in to Krakow. With the Easter weekend meaning most attractions would be shut for one or two days we had to plan carefully to be sure we could see all we wanted to see.

Arriving in the centre of town in the middle of the day we had time to drop our bags at the hotel and wander through the main square before setting off to our first destination.

Fortunately the Wieliczka Salt Mine opens until 19:30 and has the last English tour at 17:00. The train service is only once an hour and not quite coordinated with the tour times. Nevertheless we managed to get a ticket, find the train and get to the mine well in time for the tour.

Along with the old centre of Krakow, the Salt Mine was on the list of places that comprised the original 12 UNESCO World Heritage sites. The rationale for this original list would make interesting reading.

The mine is no longer mining salt but it is certainly mining money as the different language guided tour groups were packed through with only minutes between each group. Although the total length of galleries in the mine is 300km (the distance from Krakow to Warsaw) the tourist route is only 2km and descends to 135m below the surface. The tour begins with a 380 step descent to Level 1, 64m below the surface.

The tour visits a number of rooms and chapels, the most magnificent being St Kinga's Chapel, a labour of love for three miners who, bewteen them, carved every relief over a period of 70 years.

Although not mentioned as a feature of the mine, the amount of wood used as supports throughout the rooms and galleries is staggering. One wonders at the number of forests that have been felled to support the mine.

MGs at Brooklands - 5 April 2009

Once a year the Brooklands Motor Museum designates a day as MG day and the grounds are over-run with all sorts of MG models. Although most of the old Brooklands track, the first custom built motor-racing track in the world, has long disappeared under office and industrial parks along with the Brooklands airfield, the home of British aviation; the museum preserves and pays homage to the brave pioneers who led the early developments on the ground and in the air.


It seems such a shame that the great banked track, once used for speed and endurance records could not have been preserved but the steepest part of the track, banked nearly 29 ft high, the finishing straight and the test hill remain. The test hill was opened for those brave MG drivers who wanted to be able to say that they had "done it", no one had a watch so no hill climb records were broken. The hill starts at 1:8, then 1:5 before becoming 1:4 for most of its length.

The only way to drive Brooklands these days is in the simulator, hooked up to a 1996 Mclaren Mercedes in the F1 exhibition. I managed to post 3rd on the leader board for the day, a mere 0.2 seconds behind the leader. Lewis, watch your back!

Country Estates - 4 April 2009

The contrast between transport of old and today is graphically portrayed by the number of "country" houses that are now so "close" to central London. Clearly the house and London have not moved positions but the transportation nowadays is such that these "country" locations are now only a few stops on the Tube or a short bus ride.

One such place is the "country" estate of John Sloane, whose"town" house we visited in Lincoln's Inn Fields. Pitzhanger Manor is in what is now Ealing, slightly closer to London than where we live and we would certainly not consider ourselves in the "country".

The Manor is now in the hands of the local Council, has an art gallery attached and is slowly being restored by the Council to reflect its glory days. The grounds are a park and a great civic amenity.

Hampton Court Palace - 21 March 2009

Sunday thrust us into the Tudor era of Henry VIII again; that man seems to dominate so much of English history. Mothering Sunday was probably not a good time to visit Hampton Court Palace, as it seemed many other Londoners had the same idea. But it is such an extensive complex and there was plenty of room for us all.

Henry took over the Palace from Cardinal Wolsey, and the original Tudor areas are the most stunning. Later Monarchs remodeled wings of the Palace, and somehow the different styles manage to live harmoniously side-by-side. Audio tours took us through Henry's apartments, William III quarters, Queen Anne's wing and the Tudor kitchens and with the various costumed performers acting out tableaux from Henry's life there was plenty to keep us occupied for the day.

The gardens are worth a visit in their own right. Today, the wilderness area was full of blossom trees and daffodils. The formal gardens lead to the oldest and largest grapevine in the world.

Spring in Suffolk - 21 March 2009

This weekend saw London at its best. The sun shone, temperatures were mild, with spring flowers everywhere.

On Saturday we headed north-east to drive a circular route starting at Clare. Leaving this pleasant market town we headed on to Cavendish, with its attractive almshouses and then on to Nowton Park just outside Bury St Edmunds. Once the garden of a stately home, the lime avenue is a blaze of daffodils in the spring, and we were there on the perfect weekend to enjoy their 100,000 bulbs.

From there we drove into the centre of Bury St Edmunds, to enjoy the Abbey, now a ruin, courtesy of Henry VIII. Nearby is St Marys church where Mary Tudor, Henry's sister, is now buried having been moved from the Abbey. Bury claims to have the smallest pub in the country, which can only comfortably seat about six people. We were fortunate and found The Nutshell fairly empty so occupied a significant portion of the seating and enjoyed a drink.

To the west of Bury St Edmunds is Ickworth House. This stunning country pile, has some very interesting characters in its history, including an agnostic Bishop of Ireland. We enjoyed the gardens as well as looking round the house. One entire wing of the house was built just for the sake of symmetry and for most of its existence had no function; it served as a grain store for the farm for a period but was mostly just a shell.

The circular drive took in other towns, the most interesting features were two churches: one, at Great Bradley, with a genuine old Tudor porch and the other, at Kedington, just old and untouched. Old uneven flagstones, old C15th pews, antique triple-decker pulpit and so on. Although this may sound like many churches in England, this one was a real step back into history.