5 Photo ops and 1 major problem – 10 September 2009

Or, “How Canon ruined the most scenic walking route in Europe”.

Today was 'the' day: we were walking the Cinque Terre, or 5 Lands. These are 5 villages that are built into clefts in the precipitous rock faces that form the coast of this area of Italy. In the past the only access was by sea and a footpath. Now a train line joins them all, bringing masses of tourists, who come to walk the footpath.

End to end it is 7 miles (11km) and about 5 hours walking. We decided to walk east to west so took the train from Levanto to Riomaggiore to begin the walk.

The first town, Riomaggiore, is a great introduction to the area. We walked to the marina, checked out the upper town, and then we set of for the 30 minute stroll to Manarola, This is on a super-highway track, clearly designed for the day trippers so that they can go home and claim that they have walked the Cinque Terre.

We looked around Manarola and then disaster struck. Our 4-month old Canon G10 Powershot failed catastrophically as the CCD receptor stopped working. So here we were, 30 minutes into a 5-hour trek along a beautiful stretch of coastline with colourful villages tumbling down verdant terraced hillsides against an azure blue Mediterranean sea on a gloriously sunny day and we had no camera. “Thank you, Canon” - not!

With a heavy heart, we trudged on to Corniglia where it was large enough and touristy enough to at least sell cheap horrible disposable cameras.

The sections from Corniglia to Vernazza and from Vernazza to Monterosso al Mare are designed to 'sort the men from the boys'. The footpath to the east had been quite civilised and did not get too far from sea level, apart from the climb up the 380 steps to Corniglia.

Corniglia to Vernazza was described as the greenest section of the walk and we were looking forward to seeing the terraced hillsides with their 7000km of stone walls and vineyards and olive groves and so forth. However, a fire on the Sunday before we arrived had reduced great swathes of this section of the hillsides to ash and the footpath had only just been reopened so, in spite of no decent camera, (did I mention Canon are not my favourite company today?) we did feel privileged that after finally making it to the Cinque Terre we were not turned back.
The highest point on the footpath is between Corniglia and Vernazza but the roughest part of the footpath is the section between Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare. The temperature for the last two sections was in the high 30s so by the time we arrived in Monterosso al Mare at the end of the footpath we were fairly done-in and after exploring the town were quite pleased to collapse on the train for the short ride back to Levanto.


More photos of Vernazza are available here by kind courtesy of Young Jee Filer who we met on the trail.

A close run thing - 9 September 2009

The major highlight of today was actually arriving in Italy, but it was a close run thing. Because of some fortuitous bus connections we arrived at Stansted a full hour ahead of schedule so had a leisurely coffee and breakfast snack before sauntering off to the gate with ample time to spare and were well towards the front of the non-priority queue for our Ryanair flight to Genoa.

What we had forgotten was that when Ryanair relaxed the rules and allowed non-EU citizens to check-in online, they had added an additional stupid step to the process and forced non-EU citizens to get a stamp on their boarding passes before they went through security. This stamp signifies that the holder has a valid travel document (i.e. passport), something that anyone with normal vision can check.

The flight was announced, the priority people boarded and then it was time for the rest of us. We took our turn only to be told we did not have the stamp and the only place the stamp can be obtained is on the street side of security.

So began the mad dash, with 20 kilos of hand luggage, back from the gate through the departure lounge back to security – from the wrong side. A kindly soul let us out though a locked door back to the initial checking desk where we were, again, let out through the barrier and pointed at check-in desk 94.

Fortunately there was no queue at desk 94 and our boarding passes were soon emblazoned with about 8 stamps and the race back began. The initial checking man had said to return to him so we did and were passed through but then had to do the full scan thing again. We had barged past a bunch of people thinking we were immune this time around but, no, it was back through the scanners (fortunately without having to remove boots, belts and laptop and liquids from luggage, as per first time through.) What the people in the queue that we had barged past thought, I have no idea.

So then it was full pelt back through the departure lounge and off to the Gate arriving just as the last person in the queue was being processed. The relief with which we collapsed on to the plane was immense. Amazingly we had made the round-trip in under 12 minutes.

But enough of our stupidity, what about Italy?

Our first stop was Camogli, a fishing village tucked away off the main road where we enjoyed a relaxing snack, Then it was on to Levanto to find some accommodation for the night.

Roof-top Tour - 5 September 2009

The Historic Royal Palaces card is a great deal which gives unlimited access to a number of ex-Royal Palaces in London

They also have special members-only events from time to time and today was one such occasion as a tour of the Hampton Court Palace roof was available to members.

We took train to Hampton and walked back to the palace via Bushy Park. En route, we passed Garrick Temple by the Thames; built as a tribute to Shakespeare.


On arriving at Hampton Court Palace, we first took our chances in the maze, said to be the oldest surviving hedge maze in Britain, had a look again at the formal gardens, and then it was time for the roof.

After climbing the 107 steps, we were rewarded with wonderful views of the surroundings and a close up look at the 242 “Elizabethan” chimneys. The originals were long gone and the ones there today were painstakingly restored by the Victorians, using the original plans.

Driving the Dales - 31 August 2009

From the Dark & White Peaks, we moved south for a drive around the Dales; another a wonderful area for walkers. We first did a short walk over Stanton Moor, a hilltop plateau covered in heather in full bloom, to find the Nine Ladies. These, along with the Cork Stone, are remnants of the Bronze Age.

Then southwest to Longnor, down to a favourite town – Hartington, to Ilam with its pretty village via a new discovery – Milldale. This was a wonderful drive along narrow roads at the base of the Dale, it just felt like walking except it was less effort and we covered the ground much quicker. The lovely market town of Ashbourne, lead us finally to our destination of Tissington.


This is a stunning estate village, and driving over the cattle-stop and along the lime tree avenue feels like a different world, even though it's a public road. Bank Holiday Monday was our only chance to visit Tissington Hall, and when we arrived, it appeared that hundreds of other people had come with the same idea: the little village was packed.

We found the tour of the Hall, built at the beginning of the 18th century, really interesting. The guide obviously has great admiration for the current owner (who welcomed our group), who had unexpectedly inherited the property.


There was still enough time in the day for a slight diversion to Cottesbrooke Hall, also only available for us on Bank Holidays. We arrived just in time for the last tour of the day. The house has lovely rooms, an interesting layout with a semi-circular corridors linking the wings, but the overall impression is how much the family have always loved horses, hunting and hounds. There are paintings and bonzes of horses everywhere. I'm sure previous owners would be outraged and incredulous to learn that fox hunting has been outlawed in this country.

Walking the Peaks - 30 August 2009

As you drive around the Peak District, there are groups of walkers everywhere, and as this was our only full day in the Peak District, we felt it only right to joint them, so carefully choose a walk to suit us, rejecting two which had strenuous climbing. The chosen walk started along a canal from Whaley Bridge, but once we left the navigation area, it climbed steeply to 500m, through heather, along Cracken Edge and up to the top. The strenuous walk was worth it, and the views are stunning.

After the walk we set out on a circular drive in the area. This took in the attractive villages of Prestbury, Astbury and Buxton. A totally different point of interest was Jodrell Bank: the area around the giant telescope is open to the public, with a small visitor centre showing two excellent 3D films. It is always humbling to be reminded of the insignificance of Earth (let alone ourselves) in the enormity of the known universe. It was interesting to see the telescope up close, and see it moving as it tracks objects in space.

The rain started as we headed to Buxton, and hilltops at a lower elevation than those on our morning walk, were now up in the cloud. The recession did not seem to be effecting the popular Railway Pub in Buxton, probably helped by it's excellent value meals.

On The Edge - 29 August 2009

The August Bank Holiday is the perfect time to return to the Peak District, and hope the heather was still flowering. After doing two circular tours of this wonderful area, we can happily report that the heather was looking at its best.

We started the day (after an early start from London, to beat the traffic) in Bakewell, home of the famous Bakewell Pudding, then onto Over Haddon, where we did a short but excellent walk along the River Lathkill, in the Lathkill Dale. The river has eleven weirs in short succession at this point, left over from its mining past, but currently used as hatcheries.

We next explored Ashford In The Water, a typically picturesque Peak town, on past Monsal Head to Castleton. The road into Castleton is stunning, but it was not until we got past Hathersage, that we found a significant amount of heather.

North of Hathersage, we did a pleasant walk along Stanage Edge, one of the many stunning outcrops of rock, that are the hallmark of the Peak District. The Edge is obviously a popular destination for rock climbers, but we were able to walk from the foot to the top of the Edge the easy way, on an easy gradient path.

We spent the rest of the afternoon on a circular route over Snake Pass, and other Dark Peak moors, back around to Hathersage again. The heather was at its peak, and we managed a short walk over the heather clad hills to an isolated pair of rock outcrops, before enjoying a delicious dinner at the Millstone Restaurant.

Wool Towns - 23 August 2009

As a total contrast to yesterday, we set out from London in the opposite direction, and did a tour through the pastel plaster-coated villages of Suffolk. The tour started at Castle Hedingham, which is both the name of the village and the Norman Keep, which has the largest stone Norman arch left in the world. The Keep gives an idea of life in Norman times. The village, below the Castle, is delightful, centred around the large church.

Then on through the very attractive villages of Clare and Cavendish, to Long Melford. As the name implies, this is a long and narrow town, and at one end are two Tudor grand houses. Behind the stunning church, is Kentwell, our first stop. This is a huge imposing Tudor house, which has been altered by subsequent owners, and most unusually, even has new alterations by the current owners. The house is open to the public, and you can literally wander throughout most of the house in a very relaxed and unsupervised fashion.

Over the road is the much more conventional Melville Hall. This house is also still lived in, but under the care of the National Trust. The owners have kept the imposing traditional interiors, so the overall feel is conservative, in total contrast to their near neighbours.
The tour then took us to Lavenham. This is a stunning town, and like all the others visited today, was involved in the wool trade. This created great wealth and prosperity in the middle ages, which accounts for the fabulously ornate churches each of these relatively small towns have.

Lavenham was the source of 'Lavenham Broad Cloth' making it a world renowned weaving town but when the industrial revolution took place, rivers were required to power the new looms. Lavenham had no river, and the hand looms were not competitive in the new markets. The town died, and was left in a time warp, which now makes for a very appealing town of half timbered buildings. We visited Little Hall, which was restored by identical twins in the 1930s. These twins had an interesting connection with New Zealand, as they volunteered in the Great War, and served at Gallipoli. One, a Colonel and the other a medical Major. The Colonel had Anzacs serving under him, with which he had a love-hate relationship. He loved their natural skills as soldiers, but hated their informal outlook and their reluctance to conform to army discipline.

The final stop of the day was totally unassociated with the wool trade. Little Maplestead is an unpretentious small town, which has a round church associated with the Knights Templers, who established a hospital nearby. The benefactor who funded the church, saw the style on his own trip to the Holy Land on the Crusades.