The Dance Macabre - 26 May 2007

Words cannot do justice to the Church of the Holy Trinity at Hrastovlje. Completely enclosed in high, stone, walls to provide protection from the Ottoman Turks, this tiny church has a Tardis-like quality in that it seems much bigger inside than out.

Almost every internal surface is covered with frescoes from 1490, a wall-to-wall, Gothic picture-book paupers’ Bible. These frescoes in lichen and red-wine pigments survived under layers of whitewash until the 1950s. There are cartoons of the Creation and the Passion; an Adoration of the Magi; pictures of the Apostles; the Annunciation; and a calendar of monthly tasks. But the showstopper is the Dance Macabre.
This fresco, running the full length of one wall shows Death (skeletons) leading a 15th century pecking order of pope, king, queen, cardinal, bishop, monk, doctor, moneylender, soldier, cripple and baby to confront their mortality in a stark reminder that before God we are all equal and there will be no A-list celebrity preferences when we die. This is further emphasized by the moneylender who is offering his accompanying skeleton money, in an attempt to alter his destiny.

The guidebook was absolutely correct: “The church is, quite simply a gem: as tiny as a matchbox, as atmospheric as a cathedral.”

Not quite so accurately described is Vipava, dubbed the “Slovene Venice” as it is built around the springs which form the delta source of the Vipava River and, consequently, it has numerous bridges. However, any Venetian allusions are entirely in the minds of the PR and marketing writers! Nevertheless we explored the different springs that give the Vipava River it’s claim to fame as the only European river that begins with a delta.

The nearby, protected, town of Goče really is worth a detour. The scrape marks on the walls of the narrow streets bear testimony to the narrowness of the streets and alleyways. It looks as though progress has entirely passed it by, leaving it with a timeless Mediterranean feel.

While there, a milk tanker came to collect the milk stored in a vat by the town square. The vat was possibly 200 litres, a far cry from the size of the vats NZ farmers store milk in while waiting for the tanker collection.

However, NZ cannot compete in the castle stakes: Predjama Castle is big and impressive, built into a natural cave and with an interesting history of withstanding sieges. One besieged occupant discovered a “back door” through the limestone caverns and taunted his enemies by presenting them with roast bullock and freshly picked cherries during the year-long siege. His downfall was a treacherous servant who colluded with the enemy.

En-route to our final destination, we detoured through the Rakov Škojan Regional Park, and did a short walk to a natural limestone bridge. The word karst, referring to the remarkable surface and underground forms, created as a result of the action of water on permeable limestone comes from the Karst area of Slovenia, so this is the ‘home’ of caves, dripstone formations, natural bridges and sinkholes.

One natural phenomenon, in this area, which ‘sinks’ is Lake Cerknica: depending on the time of year and recent rainfall, this area can be a lake, a wetland or pasture; we saw it at the wetland stage.

Being Saturday, we decided to look for accommodation earlier than usual. A nearby ‘Tourist Farm’ provided bed, breakfast and, for a small extra charge, home cooked dinner, so we decided on another new experience.
The village was intriguing: quite different architecture to what we had seen previously. The houses were long and thin, close together along the road and each house had, attached at the rear, a barn with the animals.

Next Slovenian impression: impossibly small land-holdings. The farm sizes were 3 to 5 hectares and the fields all seemed to be long and thin strips, a patch-work quilt of land use, with no fences.

A taste of Croatia - 25 May 2007

Since we arrived in Poreč too late to see the main attraction, the Basilica of Euphrasius, it was our starting point today. This Byzantine Church, another World Heritage Site, built in the 6th century has some of the most incredible gilt mosaics in the Apse. The other feature is the Ciborium in the presbytery; from the 13th century this is also decorated with fabulous mosaics and supported on four marble columns. There is also a collection of Roman mosaics on display.



Down the coast through Funtana and Vrsar then a big detour inland to skirt the Lim canal and back to the coast to visit Rovinj, another Venetian City originally on an island. Now part of the mainland it was threaded with fascinating narrow passageways and lined with colourful houses and, naturally, the Church at the top of the hill.

Almost at the end of the Istrian peninsula is Pula: a Roman town rather than a Venetian city with several buildings from the first century still remaining. Its star feature is the amphitheatre: one of the 6 largest Roman amphitheatres still existing today and with almost the entire original wall still remaining to full height. Although originally accommodating 23,000 spectators, most of the original tiers have gone and today’s capacity is a mere 5000.




A quick tour of the town took in the 2nd century Twin Gate; the 1st century Arch of the Sergii; and the 1st century Temple of Romae on the site of the original forum

Heading back to Slovneia, it was so hot that we diverted back to the coast by Poreč for a most refreshing swim after which we cruised through a few hilltop villages stopping just short of the border to spend our few remaining Kuna on ice creams.

Border formalities were none existent. I held up two green booklets, which could have been absolutely anything, and was waved through both Croatian and Slovenian checkpoints.

One reads all the official guff from the Croatian National Tourist Board, like “To enter Croatia, a driver’s licence, an automobile registration card and vehicle insurance documents (including Green Card) are required.” and has a quick panic then checks the folder the car rental people supplied. Satisfied that all will be well, you turn up at the border to find that holding up something that looks like a passport is all that is needed to elicit a cheerful wave through.

Back in Slovenia the task was to find a bed for the night. This proved to be more difficult than other nights but we eventually found a gastro-pub type Country Inn based in a Winery. This proved to be a wonderful place to stay: comfortable room; the most delicious dinner and excellent service. Breakfast the next morning was also a real treat, 5-star silver-service style attention to detail. It provided one of those unexpected occasions that stay in your mind to mark a special find. If you are in the area check out Brič at Dekani, just inland from Koper.

Border bashing - 24 May 2007

Leaving Divača, we headed to the coast in the brilliant sunshine and crossed our first border of the day, into Italy.

Seeing as we were so close it would have been silly not to visit Trieste to start the day. It is a large and busy city and it seemed that we saw more traffic in that one morning that the entire time we spent in Slovenia. We sat on the waterfront and drank a gold-plated iced coffee, walked a few streets and left.

Our second border crossing was back into Slovenia on the way around the coast to Koper. We must have been the first Kiwis that particular border guard had seen drive through. After consulting books and manuals, he waved us through.


Koper is Slovenia's main port. The old town is run down, but interesting.

Izola is no longer an island but a picturesque spot nevertheless. But, best of all was our focus for the day: Piran. This Venetian city still looks loved and is a pleasure to walk around.





In spite of the heat we climbed the hill to the city walls and watchtowers at the top of the town: the wonderful view was just reward for our labours.

Around the bay is the tourist town of Portorož which we breezed through on our way to view the salt pans at the foot of the Dragonja valley. Unfortunately we were there at the wrong time of the year as, naturally, the salt is harvested at the end of summer so all we saw were rectangular pools of water.

Time for border crossing number three: into Croatia for the night. We headed for Umag on the coast, collected some Kuna to spend and wandered down the coast stopping for the night at Poreč. Accommodation and food in Croatia seemed to be more expensive than Slovenia.

Sixth impression of Slovenia, not all the border guards are up to speed with visa regulations.

I left my heart in Goriška Brda - 23 May 2007

We left the foothills of the alps and headed towards Dobrovo. We crested the hill and suddenly, we were in a different world: the Goriška Brda, known as the Slovenian Tuscany. It took us about three seconds to fall in love with it, and were struck by a compelling urge to buy a vineyard and stay. Lacking obvious Real Estate offices we, reluctantly, moved on.

The next stop, geographically, is not far away, but a world away in terms of ambiance. When Italy was given Gorica after WWII, the Slovenians built Nova Gorica to replace it. We found the square between the two cities, where, when Slovenia joined the EU, they tore down the boundary fence and created a square that you can enter from either side (but not leave by the opposite side) as a symbolic gesture of friendship between Italy and Slovenia. Standing in the middle one has a foot in both camps. In a curiously similar way, our road to Nova Gorica went across a corner of Italy without leaving Slovenia

Stanjel is a walled city complete with church, castle, a grand manor and a formal garden: all rather rundown, faded and tatty, but somehow charming. It made us feel as if we had made a discovery other tourists had missed.

After relaxing there, we took the motorway to arrive in time at our main feature of the day, the Škocjan Caves. These are in a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We welcomed the change to get out of the heat, and take the underground tour.

The cave tour starts with impressive, but not mind-boggling caverns filled with stalactites etc – all things we had seen many times before. But as you leave the dry, quiet section and enter the area where the underground river leaves the system, it all changes. The Reka River travels 40 km underground, and it has carved out the largest underground gorge in Europe. We felt as if we had entered the set of Lord of the Rings: the small lights way below us seemed likely to be dwarves hard at work; all we needed were a few orks peering round a corner.

One of the tour group slipped and broke a bone so we had an extra 40 minutes at the entrance to the large cavern, so we did get a good look at the cave.

We took a night’s accommodation in a gostilna in the next village, Divača. These are the equivalent of a country inn, and are good value, often with excellent food.

Fifth impression of Slovenia is that the wines take a little getting used to: they tend to be a bit sharper than we are used to but pleasantly quaffable all the same.

Hairpins and hair-raising - 22 May 2007

Lake Bled was like a millpond in the morning. On the way out of town, we called in at the church, to see the wall paintings. Painted in 1936, the artist depicted Lenin as Judas leaving the Last Supper, moneybag in hand.

We traveled northwest into the Julian Alps. A side trip up the Vrata valley took us, seemingly, right to the foot of the mountains but the track markers indicated it was another 10km on foot before one really was at the base, we appreciated the view from where we were.

Another side trip, almost to the point where Italy, Austria and Slovenia meet, took us to a great lunch spot in the Zelenci National Park where streams that have disappeared underground further up the mountains reappear in crystal clear springs; very reminiscent of Pupu Springs in Golden Bay NZ, only smaller.

Past Jasna Lake, the real challenge started as we took the Vršič mountain pass with its 50 hairpin bends. The day was excellent and the scenery breathtaking. Russian POWs built the road during WWI. 100 killed in an avalanche are remembered with a fairytale Russian Chapel at bend 8 and near bend 21 there is a military gravesite.

A couple of bends further on is the highest point one can drive a car to in Slovenia, 1611m. [Circled in this picture is an inverted heart shaped hole through the mountain.]

The guidebook suggested a side trip to the source of the Soča River by leaving the main road at bend 49 on the descent. After driving to the parking spot we set off on the 15-minute walk along what the book described as a path.

We met a very hot and bothered looking walker, and asked by sign language, if the track was steep: he indicated it was OK. The day was definitely hot by now, when we set off on this easy walk along a 'path’. It ended up as a cliff scramble! Assisted by stakes in the mountainside and steel cables we struggled up the mountainside to where the river emerges from the hillside.

On a clear day this drive is a must: the track to the source of the Soča is definitely optional.

We finished the slalom drive at the town of Kobarid, the site of the “Italian Front” in WWI. There is a historic trail that takes one to bunkers, trenches and a gun emplacement. Nearby is the Italian Charnel House where 7014 Italian soldiers are buried and the names of the 4266 known dead are engraved on the immense slabs of serpentine that make the walls of this most imposing monument. Ironically, Mussolini opened it in 1938, just a year before it was déjà vu, all over again.

Our last challenge of the day was finding a bed for the night. Ignoring perfectly good signs for B&Bs as we drove along, we tried to find an organic tourist farm mentioned in the Slovenian guide. We followed the signs for Čadrag, as indicated, until the road seemed to stop at a National Park boundary. There was a tavern there, so we enquired and were told we had about 6km to go. On we pressed. The road up the side of a gorge made the morning’s hairpin bends on the alpine pass seem like driving for amateurs. After what seemed like miles of cliff edges with no passing room; road works on a track that hardly qualified as a road; and a wooden slat bridge over a very deep ravine, we arrived at a T intersection where we met a small truck and managed to pass by both going to the wrong side of the road. The direction signs indicated a left turn so we drove up what was no more than a narrow driveway to reach a cluster of houses. Sign language told us the farm was another 4 km along the right-hand branch of the T, an even worse road. Our nerves couldn't take any more; we turned back.

Fourth impression of Slovenia: the people are very friendly.

Beautiful Bled - 21 May 2007

The big high over Central Europe arrived today, good timing, as we set out for the mountains.

Our first stop was the Smlednik Calvary: built in 1772 and one of the oldest and most beautiful in Slovenia, the 14 restored Baroque stations of the Cross snake up the hill to the three crosses at the top.

On then to Skofja Loka: founded in 973 and complete with an upper class square for the wealthy, and a lower class square, for the others; the difference is still very obvious today. The Capuchin Bridge [background], a handsome, single span arch was built in the 14th Century and is one of central Europe’s oldest bridges. It has now been augmented by other crossings but is still in use for traffic today.


Kranj was better from a distance but did provide the rather unusual spectacle of some men scuba diving in the main street.

After that, it was on to the popular tourist destination of Lake Bled where we found a lovely lakeside pension to stay in.


Across the road we were able to take a boat ride to the picture-postcard Otok Island.

4km north of Bled is the very stunning Vintgar Gorge. The afternoon had turned very hot, so we really enjoyed the walk in the cool shadows of the cliffs. The walkway is about 1.5 km long, and most of its length is a boardwalk, built out from the cliff edge.

After dinner, on a balcony overlooking the lake, we walked along the lakeside into Bled. Surpsingly, for a 1000 year-old settlement, the town itself has no appeal: but the setting is fabulous; justly deserving its place as Slovenia's premier tourist resort.

Third impression of Slovenia: the countryside is dotted with racks for drying hay. There are distinct regional variations to these racks, some single, some double, some including corn drying areas, some built into barns.