Funicular and cable car - 20 May 2007

Ljubljana has a crisp old centre with many elegant buildings. This is due to the efforts of a 20th century architect called Jože Plečnik. His most well known legacy is the triple bridge and colonnades used, when we visited, for an antiques market. We bumped into his work in a number of places on our trip including an altar and a tabernacle in two churches.



The very recently opened funicular railway took the effort out of climbing up to the high bluff above the town, to visit the castle.

Ljubljana is small and compact and we spent the morning on a trail of discovery of Plečnik buildings. One of the more fascinating, off the main tourist route, discoveries we made, was his monument to celebrate the point where the river left the town. He dressed up some utilitarian sluice gates into a triumphal arch for the waters that leave the city.

Weary with architecture and hot streets, we decided to head out to the mountains, taking the northeast route out of town to Kamnik. This seemed very quiet after Ljubljana: a perfect place to unwind. North of the town, we took a cable car followed by a chair lift to Velika Planina, a plateau at the top of the mountain (1666m). It was described as the perfect place for an effortless alpine stroll. The most fascinating feature was the herdsmen's huts: we were a few weeks early, but in June, the herdsmen will arrive with their herds to graze the alpine meadows.

Once off the mountain, we visited a nearby arboretum. This had a French parterre, an English garden, a rose garden and forest. It was a beautiful evening to enjoy the long warm Summer day.

We had spotted a very picturesque village on the trip up the valley, so went back to explore: the churchyard was fascinating; every plot has a very manicured garden with lit candles or LEDs. They all looked like display gardens from the Chelsea Flower Show (just on a smaller scale). Having looked at a few other cemeteries in Slovenia, this appears to be the norm, although we never saw another one to match this first one. The time and cost expended to keep these graveyards looking like this must be amazing, unlike the typical English churchyard, not a single plot appeared unloved.

We had expected Kamnik to show some signs of life in the evening so headed back for dinner. We only found one place open, maybe because it was Sunday evening. They managed to serve Murray the wrong meal, so he got to eat two meals.

Second impression of Slovenia is that the drivers are madmen. Rules such as no cellphone use; obeying speed limits; keeping to your own side of the road; and observing ‘no passing’ restrictions clearly do not apply to the locals.

Sloping off to Slovenia - 19 May 2007

Although we left Stansted airport late we managed to arrive in Ljubljana by 4:20 p.m., collected our grey 'Soviet issue’ rental car and drove to the apartment we had booked and paid for through EasyJet.

The accomodation was described as a ‘hotel apartment’ but when we arrived at the address we found a 13-story ‘soviet issue’ residential apartment block with a card-access security entrance rather than the ‘hotel’ desk we were expecting. Some tenants arrived home, so we ‘shoulder surfed’ through the security door behind them, thus accessing the lobby. While trying to decide on our next move another couple of tenants arrived so we asked them if they spoke English and found that they did not.

We knew the apartment was on the 12th floor, so took the lift up to have a look. Sure enough, there was a door with the apartment name we were looking for but it was firmly locked and there was no bell. Then the next door opened and it turned out that the non-English speaking folk we met in the lobby lived next door. (I think that they were expecting us to turn up on the landing and were waiting for us.) After a sign language exchange and showing them our booking confirmation the woman rattled off in Slovenian then indicated for us to wait while she went and rang the apartment owner who appeared from the floor above, with a key. We have no idea how we would have got on without their help and the coincidence of meeting these helpful neighbours in the lobby.

Apart from the practicalities of finding the place, it was a very well appointed apartment and reasonably handy to the city centre (if you have a car)

We drove into the city to have a look around. Dinner was a memorable meal: we decided to try a platter for two, which turned out to be a huge serving dish loaded with different types of meat and vegetables; there was enough meat on the plate for a week so we struggled to eat a delicious meal which could have fed a whole family.

First impression of Slovenia is that they have a much more relaxed attitude to advertising images than we are used to, this billboard being a little more restrained than some.

Please bee seated - 13 May 2007

It must be the swarming season for bees.

On the last two weekends we have come across bees clustered together in unusual locations, certainly nowhere near a hive.

Hidden history - 12 May 2007

The curious thing about the UK is that there are quaint little bits of history scattered all over the place, some in the most obscure locations.

This mausoleum, modelled on one on the Apian Way in Rome, was built in 1752 in the little village of Fawley, tucked away in the Chilterns.

John Freeman saw the original while on his Grand Tour and decided to copy it for his and the family's mortal remains. There are 12 Freemans entombed here. The mausoleum in the background is a MacKenzie resting place.

World Heritage day - 8 May 2007

We had previously known King Edward I as a romantic from the memorial crosses he built marking Queen Eleanor's funeral journey.

From our trip to north Wales, we saw him in a different light. In the 13th Century he commissioned a series of strategic castles, around the coastline of northern Wales; these are all now classed as world Heritage Sites

On our final day we visited another three of his castles. Beaumaris is a perfectly symmetrical castle; built on a marsh beside sea it had a channel cut to allow ships to tie up beside the walls. Possibly the pinnacle of medieval military architecture, this castle was built from scratch on a new site, so was unfettered by previous constructions and allowed the designer free reign to explore the latest defensive techniques. Ironically, it was never fully completed and never saw action until the Civil War some four centuries later.

The whole of Conwy is like a film set. A C 19th suspension bridge leads to the castle walls. Like Caenarfon, the castle has walls to walk along, corridors to explore and towers to climb. It is a stunning castle set at one corner of an amazing town, itself a World Heritage Site.

Surrounding the town, almost intact, are its medieval walls. Unlike Caenarfon where what remains of the walls seems to get lost in the modern town, Conwy’s walls are its defining feature. Inside the walls medieval houses have survived: we visited one of the oldest and reputedly the finest remaining Elizabethan Townhouse in Britain, a Tudor merchant's house. The exterior of Plas Mawr is white plaster, which apparently is how the town walls and castle originally looked: it must have been very impressive. In fact all of the castles we visited on this trip were originally plastered inside and out and lime whitewashed. They must have made a fantastic sight on the occasional sunny Welsh day.

Just outside Conwy is Bodnant Garden; these were equally impressive, in a different way. These gardens are famous for their rhododendrons and azaleas; and, in spite of the inclement Welsh weather, everything was looking stunning.

As we headed back to London, on a rather quicker journey than King Edward could ever have imagined, we had a quick stop at one more of his castles. Castle Rhuddlan is inland, and a 2-mile section of the passing river was straightened and channelled to bring the ships up to the foot of the castle. This was the first of Edward’s northern castles; Beumaris was the last.

One weekend is not long enough to visit all the surviving castles in Wales; there are 641, and not even long enough to visit all the castles Edward built, but the 13 we saw gave us a great appreciation of the building skills from so long ago.

Edward's Jewel - 7 May 2007

Leaving South Wales, we set off for the north. On the way, but curiously seemingly in the middle of nowhere, was the National Woollen Museum. This provided an interesting look into the work methods and conditions of the past. Fascinating fact for this visit was the wool gatherers: women who followed the drovers, collecting the scraps of wool from the bushes and hedgerows as the herds made their way across country. Tufts of wool caught on barbed-wire fences are such a common part of our childhood that it is sobering to realise how tough times past were; in that these scraps were precious enough to be gathered, spun and woven to produce saleable goods to supplement the meagre living of these women.

However, the focus of the day was the two castles at Harlech and Caernafon, both World Heritage Sites. Harlech Castle is little more than a shell, but has a great walk around the walls from where the views are magnificent. When built, the sea came right up to the base of the rock the castle is built on, allowing the castle to be re-provisioned from the sea: a feature of the next three castles as well.

The Bank Holiday traffic meant that we were later than planned arriving at Caernarfon. We could have spent much longer there, but in the 1.5 hours we had left before closing we raced around the extensive walkways and corridors and up and down most of the towers. Caernarfon Castle is amazing, and it is not surprising that it has World Heritage status.



Much more a statement of Kingship than military power, it has retained its ceremonial significance by hosting the investitures of the last two Princes of Wales



After checking into our hotel, we had a look around Bangor. The best feature of the town is the pier, extending half a kilometre out into the Menai Strait.

Castles: a tour de four - 6 May 2007

Kidwelly Castle really appealed to us although it is now an extensive ruin. It has an especially impressive gatehouse with double layers of defence and the slots for the portcullis and murder holes etc all still well defined.

Picton Castle is a very different type of castle: rather than the ruins we had been visiting this castle has been occupied for the last 850 years by direct descendants of the original builder. The castle was extended in the Regency Period, and the result is a splendid residence that is open for guided tours. We started the tour in the library, which has been made in one of the round towers, saw some of the other 'great' rooms and then the 'below stairs' area where they have an amazing collection of kitchen, laundry and domestic household items . The gardens are, once again, a rhododendron showplace, being home to several hybrids that were bred here and are unique to Picton.

The forecast rain had not arrived, so we decided to visit Tenby, via the Lamphey Bishop’s Palace. Although this is now a ruin and not really worth a detour it does hint at the style to which the mediaeval church fathers thought they were entitled and the power that they wielded. As one visits Bishop’s Palaces around the UK one wonders were they saw any justification for their excesses and extravagance in the words and teachings of Jesus.

Tenby is a busy little town full of tourists and tourist tat. The tourists flock here, as it is a perfect relic from the past: the town walls and entrance arches have survived well; unlike the castle, which is no more than a ruin.

The harbour is very sheltered and surrounded by gaily-painted houses. Hidden behind the front row, is a Tudor Merchant’s House, furnished in period furniture. One of the room stewards was a font of information and we learnt the derivation of expressions such as “left on the shelf”. One only graduated to a bed once one was married, until then you slept on the floor, as close to the fireplace as possible. Pride of place went to the eldest daughter who could sleep on the shelf (or hearth as it is known today). So, clearly, if the daughter never married, she was “left on the shelf”.



As the rain was still holding off we stopped at one final village, Carew. This small village is well worth a visit, and on a sunny day would look even better. As well as the large castle, (closed by the time we arrived) there is an impressive, and rare (one of only three in Wales) C 11th Cross; and the only restored tidal mill in Wales. The mill dam and a medieval bridge at the village provide a 1 mile loop track which we walked in the intermittent drizzle.