You take the high road and I'll take the low road - 31 August 2006

The early morning rain cleared for us to enjoy a walk around Inveraray. First stop was the jail to tour the cells, read the histories of various prisoners and learn about their punishments. We met a jailor and the warden’s wife, both dressed for their parts. The best part was the Courtroom all set up with models of the judge, lawyers, and interested townsfolk.

Then, surprisingly, we visited the Castle: home of the Campbells, and much more elaborate than Dunvegan.

All in all, the package deal of castle, jail and town was most worthwhile and we recommend a visit.

As we were so close to it, we detoured to Loch Lomond and had a very pleasant morning tea break on the "bonnie bonnie banks".

We then visited the Bonawe Iron Furnace, located here because of the plentiful supply of wood for fuel for the smelting.

The next stop was Dunstaffnage Castle. By then the rain had made the day less pleasant, so we had a very quick look as the castle is virtually a ruin.

As we proceeded north towards Inverness, the day improved. By the time we reached Urquhart Castle on the banks of Loch Ness the sun had come out, and we enjoyed this beautiful spot.
The final stop for the day, was an amazing dinner at Oakwood Antiques, a restaurant/shop between Loch Ness and Inverness, probably the gastronomic highlight of our Scottish tour.

Its a long way to Inveraray, its a long way to go - 30 August 2006

Leaving Portree we drove north-west, up over Waternish and across to Dunvegan to visit to Dunvegan Castle: the seat of the MacLeod chiefs. Although one would think it was miles from nowhere in terms of the tourist route it was very busy with overseas tour groups.

The castle is situated in a commanding position over looking the loch. There are none of the frills of a southern castle, rather it gives the impression of a real stronghold, lived in by real chieftains.

We drove back to the Skye Bridge, past the Macleod’s Tables, along the other side of the island in the lee of the 1000m, rugged, Cuillin Hills. Once on the mainland we retraced our path back past Eilean Donan Castle and then onto Invergarry.

We had done this trip in winter and the contrast was striking. The lochs were gray, and ruffled. In the winter we got perfect reflections of snow-covered hills. Despite this, the camera still clicked away merrily! But once again, Ben Nevis refused to reveal itself.

After Fort William, we drove up Glencoe: a very attractive area, with a very troubled and blood thirsty past. The road continued through a boggy moor (the largest in Scotland, UK, World? [pick one]) to the Bridge of Orchy. From there we followed the Glen Orchy River along a very minor road, amply supplied with many perfect picnic spots.

Our final destination was Inveraray. This is a most unusual town. It was built in the 18th century, designed by John Adam and situated at a suitable distance from the new castle, undoubtedly to keep the ‘rabble at bay’.

Over the sea to Skye - 29 August 2006

We left Inverness in the rain, but soon reached sunshine in Dingwell. This is a very attractive town and next door is Strathpeffer, a Victorian spa town.

The road wound up into the mountains and we stopped at another waterfall to see the salmon jump again. We had heard about this, seen it on the television etc but nothing compares to seeing it in the wild, the athletic feats of the salmon are simply amazing. However, the next waterfall would have been a challenge for even the most energetic salmon, 50m straight up! The Falls of Measach plummet into Corrieshalloch Gorge, a deep, narrow, box canyon spanned by a 200 year old suspension bridge built by the same chap who co-designed the Forth Rail Bridge.

Although we were often driving though showers, the sun shone brightly at every stop. We drove past small towns and attractive lochs to Inverewe Gardens. These were developed from 1865 onwards on a bare hillside next to a loch. The gardens are extensive, and the walled garden is full of colourful flowers. Considering all the topsoil was carried to the gardens in baskets it is a real achievement in such an inhospitable environment.

Our last stop for the day on mainland Scotland was Eilean Donan Castle. Allegedly the McKenzie Castle, but this one is a fake and less than 100 years old. So we only took photos and had a coffee in the car park before driving over the new Skye Bridge, apparently the biggest single span bridge outside Australia.

The Island of Skye is much more rugged and much bigger than we expected. It took us an hour to reach our B&B at Portree. We would thoroughly recommend this very attractive town: the harbour is just like a picture postcard.

Stepping into history - 28 August 2006

An excellent way to avoid Bank Holiday Monday traffic was to tour the edge-of-the-world highway across the top of Scotland.

We set out at 7am to catch the sunshine, which was only promised for the morning. The first highlight of the morning was the Whaligoe Steps. These are 365 steps leading down to a tiny harbour. At the peak of the herring fishing era women used to carry baskets of herrings up the steps from the harbour. The entire flight of steps is wide enough for two-way traffic. There is not really a harbour at the foot of the steps, just a small bay with sheer cliffs all around, so the men sometimes had to chain their boats to the cliff to keep them safe from storms. There were no problems when we visited, as the weather was perfect.

The next highlight was a trip, out on a headland from Wick, to Castle Sinclair. Time has made this stronghold of power into a picturesque monument.

After that it was on to John O’Groats. This is not the most northerly point of mainland Britain but is probably the most northerly town so is treated as the top in all the “from Land’s End to John O’Groats” type phrases. It is equally miss-able as Land’s End. The rain arrived as we did, so we took the obligatory photo and left.

We saw an advertisement regarding the Queen Mum's holiday home (read Castle) which is on the north coast of Scotland. She spent two holidays at the Castle of Mey every year after she bought and restored it in 1952 just after she was widowed. The sun once again shone brightly, as we looked around the castle and gardens.

From there we drove through sun and rain all around the north and west coast of the Highlands. During the sunny spells, we visited the Smoo Cave, and the Falls of Shin. Smoo Cave is a huge limestone cave by the sea and just upstream the river that created it simply disappears down the proverbial ‘hole in the ground’. The Falls of Shin were fascinating in that we managed to see salmon leaping up the waterfall.

The day was rounded off with the very Scottish meal of Haggis, Neaps & Tatties.

Holy Island - 27 August 2006

On our journey north to Scotland we stopped of at Holy Island. The sealed access road is under water at full tide so one’s visit has to be timed with the tides which, fortunately, were on our side and access was possible at 9 a.m.

Henry 8th demolished Lindisfarne Priory, along with all the others. One of the priors was St Cuthbert, and as members of St Cuthbert's church in London, we were interested in reading his history.

Nearby is Lindisfarne Castle. This medieval castle was restored in 1901 as a holiday home. We loved the thick walls and cosy rooms. You could just imagine holidays there, sitting inside watching storms out the windows.

Back on the mainland we crossed the border and set off of Inverness via the very picturesque town of Pitlochry.

Scotland calls - 26 August 2006

After being woken up at 4am by our noisy neighbours we decided to get up at 5am and get on the road to Scotland early. Our first night's accommodation was in Alnwick, so we started our day by 11:30 am, with a visit to Alnwick Castle.
There are not many rooms open to the public, but those that are, are very opulent.

From Alnwick, we went out to the coast to Warkworth. This is another attractive town where we visited a ruined castle that had also been owned by the same family, the Dukes of Northumberland.

Because of our very early start, there was still enough time in the day to have a pleasant walk around Cragside Gardens.

It was then time to check into our B&B, followed by dinner at one of the many pubs in the town. We finished the day with a walk along the lovely local beach at Alnmouth. Beaches in the north of England have beautiful golden sand, but the water is far too cold for swimming.

Boats and Bricks - 19 & 20 August 2006

Reading probably does not figure highly in the list of “must visit” places in Britain but we were pleasantly surprised by what we found. The local museum has an interesting presentation on the history of the town and, amazingly, a full-scale copy of the Bayeux Tapestry; made in the early 1900s.

Reading Abbey was founded by Henry I as a place to be buried but, most inconveniently, he died in France. To preserve his body for the one-month trip back, it was sewn into a bullock’s hide. (I would not have wanted the task of opening the stitching at the journey’s end.)

Several Henrys later (1539) the abbey suffered the same fate as other abbeys in The Dissolution and was recycled as building material by the locals.

The town was founded at the confluence of the Thames and Kenet rivers and thus provides plenty of riverside walks.


Sunday we explored Aldermaston lock, unusual in that it has scalloped sides. Just below the lock is a lifting bridge that creates a reasonable delay for the traffic while the bridge lifts, the narrow-boat passes underneath and the bridge returns to the horizontal.


En-route back to London we stopped of at Dorney Court an amazing timber and brick Tudor Manor House that has been in the ownership of the same family basically since it was built. It is often used as a film set.