White Villages – 11 October 2010

Rather than the direct route back to Seville we plotted a route via several of the White Villages the south of Spain is famous for. A coffee here, a view there, a photo here and so forth filled in the day nicely as we visited Grazalema, Zahara, Villamartin, Bosco and finally Arcos de la Frontera. Like Ronda, Arcos de la Frontera is perched on the edge of an escarpment.

By the time we reached Arcos de la Frontera it was time for a late lunch, early dinner so we cast a critical eye over the various establishments offering food to the passing tourists but nothing appealed. Finally, down a little side alley was Boadbil whose sign offered 'The sweet charme of eating'. We arrived at the door and wondered if it was open as the tables were all empty and although the door was open the darkened interior of the cave, as that is what it was, did not appear inviting. However the owner appeared, seated us and asked if we wanted tapas and salad and what we would like to drink; and that was that. From that point on, the meal (feast) just kept appearing unbidden as we sat in the sun on the terrace enjoying the view.

The appetiser was pickled carrot and nuts, followed by a platter with a selection of cold tapas and a plate with a hot vegetable salad. Then we were treated to a gastronomic tour of various cities in Spain with seven different samosa-like delicacies. Desert was a fruit platter with generous servings of six different types of fresh fruit and hot mint tea, Moroccan style. Dates and a spiced apple-juice digestive finished the best meal we have ever had in Spain; an extremely pleasant memory to take back to London.